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Last week, I attended a Wall Street Journal + (WSJ+) dinner at the restaurant at Meadowood.  I was curious as to how this meal would compare to the other three Michelin star restaurants in the area, namely, Single Thread and The French Laundry.

Note that its been a couple of years since I went to the French Laundry, and the meal I had at Meadowood was part of an event, so I do not know how indicative it is of the restaurant’s regular tasting menu.

I also stayed at the resort which I will review in a later post.

The evening started with a walk through the dining room, and a viewing of the kitchen, some drinks, and canapes (salad roll, white asparagus, beignet chesnut miso and oysters).  I did not take pics of the canapes.  We also got to take photos with the chef – Chris Kostow.

All wine pairings and drinks were included.  The WSJ+ charged $750 pp for the event.  The first course was Escabeche of Garden Broccoli Clams.  The vegetables were extremely fresh and the clams had a lot of excellent ocean flavor.

Next was an absolutely luxurious caviar tendon cultured butter sabayon.  Everything was under the sabayon.

The next dish I thought was brilliant even though I do not like abalone.  It was a cabbage abalone roll.

For the fish course, Local Sole cover corp smoked collar rillette.

….and the last savory course was a beef (I’m pretty sure it was Wagyu) smoked in dried onion tops.

Before Sauce
After Sauce

For the cheese course, black truffle veined blue cheese beeswax pear and some bread.

Next up, the desserts.  I felt the desserts were lacking and they could of provided more.

The evening finished with a Q&A session with the chef followed by more drinks.  To take home, they gave us a cookbook from the chef, some beeswax caramels and some bourbon tea.

So which of the three did I enjoy most?  Well, because its been a few years since I went to the French Laundry, I will not comment.  I do remember it being the most formal of the three, and the service there was conducted like an orchestra.  Everything in sync.

On Single Thread vs Meadowood here is my opinion:

Presentation of food.  I would have to give to Single Thread.

“Entertainment” factor of the food I would also have to go with Single Thread.

Technical complexity of the meal – Single Thread

Service – Meadowood

Taste – This is a tough one, but overall, I liked my meal at Meadowood more.

Value – This is a tough one also.  I felt like the meal at Meadowood could of used a couple more savory and sweet dishes.  I would probably go with Single Thread on this one.

Overall – If you have the opportunity to go to both I would say do so.  They are quite different in their flavors and techniques.   However, in the end, I think taste and service are the two most important parts of a meal so if I had to choose one, I would go to Meadowood. 9.5/10


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