Last week, I attended a Wall Street Journal + (WSJ+) dinner at the restaurant at Meadowood. I was curious as to how this meal would compare to the other three Michelin star restaurants in the area, namely, Single Thread and The French Laundry.
Note that its been a couple of years since I went to the French Laundry, and the meal I had at Meadowood was part of an event, so I do not know how indicative it is of the restaurant’s regular tasting menu.
I also stayed at the resort which I will review in a later post.
The evening started with a walk through the dining room, and a viewing of the kitchen, some drinks, and canapes (salad roll, white asparagus, beignet chesnut miso and oysters). I did not take pics of the canapes. We also got to take photos with the chef – Chris Kostow.
All wine pairings and drinks were included. The WSJ+ charged $750 pp for the event. The first course was Escabeche of Garden Broccoli Clams. The vegetables were extremely fresh and the clams had a lot of excellent ocean flavor.
Next was an absolutely luxurious caviar tendon cultured butter sabayon. Everything was under the sabayon.
The next dish I thought was brilliant even though I do not like abalone. It was a cabbage abalone roll.
For the fish course, Local Sole cover corp smoked collar rillette.
….and the last savory course was a beef (I’m pretty sure it was Wagyu) smoked in dried onion tops.


For the cheese course, black truffle veined blue cheese beeswax pear and some bread.
Next up, the desserts. I felt the desserts were lacking and they could of provided more.
The evening finished with a Q&A session with the chef followed by more drinks. To take home, they gave us a cookbook from the chef, some beeswax caramels and some bourbon tea.
So which of the three did I enjoy most? Well, because its been a few years since I went to the French Laundry, I will not comment. I do remember it being the most formal of the three, and the service there was conducted like an orchestra. Everything in sync.
On Single Thread vs Meadowood here is my opinion:
Presentation of food. I would have to give to Single Thread.
“Entertainment” factor of the food I would also have to go with Single Thread.
Technical complexity of the meal – Single Thread
Service – Meadowood
Taste – This is a tough one, but overall, I liked my meal at Meadowood more.
Value – This is a tough one also. I felt like the meal at Meadowood could of used a couple more savory and sweet dishes. I would probably go with Single Thread on this one.
Overall – If you have the opportunity to go to both I would say do so. They are quite different in their flavors and techniques. However, in the end, I think taste and service are the two most important parts of a meal so if I had to choose one, I would go to Meadowood. 9.5/10